You Haven't Met Bread Like This Before (So Crispy, So Green)

About 30 minutes northwest of Naples, in a commune called Caianello, there’s an agriturismo (farm-stay) called Il Contadino (“The Farmer”), run by Italian chef and restaurateur Berardino Lombardo. I love this location, as it is right off the highway that connects Rome to Naples. Turn right at the sign, and there’s a big photo of Berardino flanked on both sides by young hazelnut trees.

Next to the parking lot, there’s a large patio with tables and a huge grill. The front room has a...

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