Why Do Italians Insist on Making Wines in the Most Difficult Places?

To some extent, growing grapes and making wine anywhere is an act of faith: that nature will smile upon you, and so too will the wine-drinking public, which each year has a wider and wider variety of wines to choose from. Perhaps no wine required a bigger leap of faith than the wine of Venissa: vines planted by the Bisol family on the tiny island of Mazzorbo in the Venetian lagoon based on a combination of cultural memory, passion, and a willingness to ignore almost everyone’s advice, and...

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