Who needs France? India is making its own artisanal cheeses

Outside of paneer, the cottage-cheese-like cubes that add protein to curries and vegetable dishes, Indian cheese is mostly found in bright yellow blocks at the supermarket, or as a processed spread made by dairy giants such as Amul and Britannia.

Indians eat plenty of dairy products—milk, yogurt, and butter among them—but compared to other parts of the world, India’s cheese consumption has always been relatively small. That’s changing: A growing consumer class in big cities, with an...

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