The 4 Flavors You Need in Your Rice Bowl

“It’s the ultimate flip-flop,” writes Rachel Yang in her new cookbook, My Rice Bowl. “Which is often how we roll.” She’s referring to the four mother sauces she serves at her street food–inspired Seattle restaurant, Revel. The “flip-flop” refers to the fact that, unlike the classic French mother sauces that are the foundation of each dish, Yang’s sauces are added to a dish by diners right before eating.

And add them they do, in great quantities. The four sauces each...

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