Surfer William Finnegan Explains the Powerful Allure of the Ocean in his New Book

William Finnegan, the award-winning journalist and staff writer for The New Yorker, has built his career on stories of human conflict and suffering: political strife in Africa and Central America, water wars in Bolivia, drug murders in Mexico, human trafficking in Moldova. Even when he’s stayed in this country, as for his 1994 piece, “Deep East Texas,” it was to follow the scorched trail of the cocaine trade.

For his fifth book, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, a memoir out this...

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