Senegal hopes it has the next quinoa

According to Mali’s Dogon people, fonio, a nutty grain cultivated in West Africa, was once “the seed of the universe.” The foremost text on Dogon philosophy, Conversations with Ogotemêlli, describes how the Dogon believed that the entire world originated from a single fonio grain.

Now Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam wants this “seed of the universe” to become the next universally beloved grain.

Thiam’s company, Yolélé Foods, imports fonio to the United States. He is on a mission...

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