Review: Oliver’s Osteria in Laguna Beach is one of the best Italian restaurants to open in years

A catchy Italian pop song by Lucio Dalla cuts through the stillness at lunchtime at Oliver’s Osteria in Laguna Beach. The dining room is otherwise quiet, leaving me alone to contemplate the elegance of my cacio e pepe.

It is the most stunning plate of pasta I’ve eaten in a long while. The pasta are rigatoni, toothsome and nicely chewy, slicked with a gossamer glaze of melted Pecorino and Parmesan cheeses and freckled with a gentle twist of freshly ground pepper.

The silence is politely...

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