Long Live Hong Kong’s Purveyors of Crustless Milk Toast

Egg Custard and Milk Toast in Hong Kong

The line outside Australia Dairy Company this morning is dozens deep. I’ve typically got zero patience for restaurant lines, but a trustworthy Hong Kong native has directed me here, to the Kowloon Peninsula’s Jordan neighborhood, in my pursuit of steamed egg-custard—bowls of which are stacked in the lightly fogged-up front window.

It’s named for the founder’s long-ago stint on an Australian farm, but Australia Dairy Company is a fully Hong...

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