Eddie Huang On Pairing Menus, Where To Eat, And Food Appropriation

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Calling a star chef “an enigma” is a timeworn (and lazy) food writing tradition. Razor-tongued bad boys like Marco Pierre White, painstaking perfectionists like Nancy Silverton, and larger than life showpeople like Jeremiah Tower are all tough for the media to encapsulate in a tidy paragraph. They are at once technicians and artists; craftspeople and connoisseurs; hotheads and sensitive souls.

We won’t buy into this cliché and use the “e word” to describe Eddie...

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