David Chang’s Majordomo Is a Love Letter to L.A.

If David Chang’s aim was to set himself apart from the wave of New York chefs landing in L.A., he certainly succeeded. Hidden in an industrial zone of Chinatown—a gritty patch of real estate that developers are likely pitching as the new Arts DistrictMajordomo occupies a rust-colored warehouse on a dead-end street, lit by a strip of neon Japanese characters amid the darkness. It’s an odd oasis, but at least you won’t spend long looking for parking. A cavernous 180-seat dining hall...

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