Bring on the Herbs: How Yotam Ottolenghi Does Summer Right

In my first column for Bon Appétit in May, I mentioned the trains that frequently rumble over my team’s test kitchen. Set in an arch under a railway line in London’s Camden Town, the kitchen is on the mezzanine of an industrial warehouse; the bottom half of the bare-bones space is used as storage for our busy bakery in the arch next door. Here you’ll find five-liter tins of olive oil, crates of tahini, buckets of sea salt, and trays of dukka, lavash, and preserves ready to be...

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